Trendy or Classic… which are you?

Posted on February 3, 2012 by Nancy

We’ve been painting for years and I’ve seen color trends come and go.

For example, accenting each room with a different color is “so 2008!”  Nowadays, most clients prefer to create a better flow by choosing one main color and then adding complimentary, monochromatic or analogous color schemes in one to three colors, to add enhance the main color.

Color schemes are often described as combinations of colors on a color wheel.  Different types of schemes include:

Monochromatic refers to colors which are different values ~tints or shades ~ of a single color. Monochromatic schemes are often used in modern architecture; though this is only one application of the scheme.

Analogous refers to colors which are adjacent to each other on the color wheel, often schemes found in nature and therefore naturally pleasing (familiar) to the eye. When using the analogous color scheme, one should select only one hue as the main color. Analogous color schemes can be a fun way to mix up colors while retaining a basic sense of the logical flow.

Complementary refers to colors which are opposite each other on the color wheel, and tend to create a more energetic look and feel. Complementary colors schemes can add a ‘pop’ if you a looking for ways to make your paint treatment stand out.

Some classic colors ~ white, gray, taupe, beige and tan ~ never go out of style, while others seem to trend up and down. Following are a few of the current trends.

Go Easy on the Red. Red dining rooms were the “it” thing a decade ago and now it can come across as dated.  Painting a wall red makes creates a powerful and energetically heavy effect that fewer homeowners today are willing to live with on a daily basis.  As a result, we’ve recently been painting over a lot accent walls and dining rooms!  Don’t get me wrong… red is a fantastic color; actually one of my favorites. I especially like using bursts of red in décor ~ by adding pillows or other accents ~ to create an energetic ‘pop’ in the room, without going overboard.

Wall Color on the Ceiling. This was all the buzz five years ago, but it wasn’t really applied correctly. Typically, a room looks better when the ceiling is a lighter shade (or color) than the walls.  However, when ceilings have irregular curves or lines, using a single color for walls and ceiling is a good way to minimize irregularities and improve the overall appearance and flow.  This all-over color approach can be particularly effective in the case of vaulted ceilings, slanted walls, rounded corners or extra soffits.  This same technique can effectively add drama in small spaces, such as bathrooms, when the same deeper or brighter shade is applied to the entire space. To finish the look, trim with a beautiful light tint, such as an off white, and accessorize with complimentary colors to add a beautiful dynamic.

Say NO to dull and muted colors. They are totally passé these days, which in my opinion is one of the best things to happen to color!  For years, the most popular paint palettes featured a gray base, which felt dull from both a creative and energetic perspective.   Crisp and clean colors have the opposite effect, lifting spirits along the way.  I like the trend and have fun working with these color palettes.  Even the grays I am choosing for my clients these days tend to be shades that evoke a feeling of clean and crisp, and energetic!

    Trends in color may come and go… and then there are the classics.  If your personality is such that you will very likely change your décor in a few years, don’t be afraid of being trendy.  However, if you can’t stand home projects and the thought of painting makes your stomach turn; I recommend you choose a classic color palette that will serve you for a long time.  Either way, remember that color selection is as much science as taste and, in the end, the most successful paint projects are accomplished with the help of a professional.

    Ready to mix things up a little to create a classic look or take advantage of a current trend? Give me a call to schedule your color consultation… you’ll be so glad you did!

    Until next time,

    Nancy

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    DIY TIPS: How to Paint a Wall

    Posted on January 11, 2012 by Nancy

    If it’s not in your budget to hire a painter, or you just feel like taking on a project, painting the walls in your house can be an overwhelming task.  Here are our step-by-step instructions to make the job go more smoothly and the results more satisfying:

    1. Buy your paint from a store that specializes in paint, such as Sherwin William’s or Pacific Paint, because let’s face it… the minimum wage employee at Home Depot probably won’t be the best qualified person to advise you about your paint project.

    2. Test before you buy. I recommend that you get a test quart (of your chosen shade) and apply a large sample on the wall you plan to paint, before purchasing a whole gallon of paint.  This can save endless headaches and frustration.  Remember, paint will always look different on the wall than at the store, so take the time to test… you’ll be glad you did.

    3. Don’t skimp on quality. Buy the best quality paint your budget will allow.  Higher priced paints generally contain a higher concentration of color solids, and will therefore go on more easily and result in better and more even coverage.

    4. Assemble ALL your materials before you start the project ~ you don’t want to be running out for these items in the middle of the job:

    Plastic
    Paper
    Tape
    Caulk
    packle
    Drop cloths
    Ladder
    Paint cup or bucket with a handle
    Paint Brush
    Roller frame and cover
    Roller paint tray
    Painter rags (old tee shirts work great)
    Primer, if needed
    Paint

    4. Completely clear out the room you are painting. If you have furniture that cannot be removed easily, take the time to cover it with plastic or drop cloths.  Protect all non-painted surfaces such as floors, countertops and windows with paper, plastic or drop cloths.  Remove plug and switch plate covers and any other removable parts.  Remember to turn off the power to the plug and switch plate first!

    5. Prep the walls to be painted by 1) cleaning; 2) filling holes (nail holes can be flush filled with a dab of light weight spackle); and 3) caulking in any gaps.

    6. Tape off wood work and all non-paintable surfaces. I recommend the delicate blue painters tape or green Frog tape.  It’s expensive, but creates a better line and does the critically important job of protecting your non-paintable surfaces!

    7. Use primer if needed. Apply a primer coat to any areas that may bleed through the paint, when using a glossy finish, or if you are making a major color change.  The paint store can direct you to the correct primer for your project. Be sure to ask.

    Applying the Paint:

    1. Treat your ceilings like a wall and give them a fresh coat of paint at the same time. Believe me, when you look at the finished product, you’ll be happy you took the time to cover all surfaces.

    2. Cut in the edges of the ceiling with a brush, then roll out the center ceiling space and allow time to dry.  Apply two coats.  When you paint your walls, you will need to paint a straight line (edge) where the wall meets the ceiling (if using a different color).  This takes time if you are new, but it can be done.  Do not use the edge of the brush to draw your line; use the tip of the bristles.  Draw your line with the tip of the bristles just like you would draw with a pencil.  Do not overload your paint brush.   A little will go a long way.

    3. Always cut in from the corners, rolling out the center space of the wall.  We recommend covering one wall at time.  Once the first coat has been applied, you should be able to start the second coat right away as long as you are not painting with an extra deep based color (such as red).  I always recommend two coats.  The second coat is easier to apply than the first and it will give you a more finished and professional look.

    Take your time and have fun with the project.  It is very gratifying to paint a room and see the transformation. That’s why I do what I do!

    If you have questions about your DIY painting project, give me a call and I will do my best to support you.

    Until next time,

    Nancy

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    Choosing the right Sheen for your lifestyle…

    Posted on November 21, 2011 by Nancy

    The term sheen refers to the degree of shine or luster in the paint. Paints can be usually be ordered in the following levels of sheen:

    • Flat
    • Matte
    • Low-sheen
    • Velvet
    • Eggshell
    • Satin
    • Semi-gloss
    • Gloss
    • High gloss

    The catch is sheen from one company may not match the sheen from another… even when they are labeled similarly.  It can be tricky to select the right level of sheen for your project, so here are some helpful guidelines:

    When selecting paint, always ask to see the sheen chart, which is something every paint store will have on hand.  Some paints are only offered in a few levels of sheen, while other lines come in a vast array of sheen options.

    Kitchen, bath and high traffic areas

    I recommend you stick with a bit of sheen in the kitchen and the bathroom because flat paint can take on water stains.  Also, if your home is bustling with children and pets, you may want to select paint with a bit of sheen, which makes it easier to clean.

    For these higher traffic areas, I recommend a washable flat, low-sheen, velvet, eggshell or satin sheen.   The lower the sheen, the better it will look, so ask your painter or the paint store which is the lowest sheen up from flat in the product line you have chosen.  Many times it will be satin or eggshell.

    Flat is beautiful…

    A flat sheen will always minimize the imperfections inherent in any surface, which makes flat an ideal sheen for most walls other than kitchen and bath.  If your life style is such that you don’t expect a lot of clean up on the walls, I recommend a flat sheen for the most beautiful finish.

    Semi-gloss shows everything… so proceed with caution

    I never recommend using a semi-gloss sheen for walls, even in a bathroom, because high sheen results in more light reflection and that means greater visibility for any imperfections on the wall.

    Trim with Satin

    For wood work or trim, I prefer a satin sheen.  Because baseboards and trim tend to take some abuse, satin sheen enamel won’t accentuate the imperfections but will allow for easy clean-up because it dries to a hard surface.  Important:  NEVER use wall paint on woodwork.  If the wood work is in exceptional condition, then a semi-gloss can be a suitable choice as well.

    So, now you’ve got the scoop on sheen.

    Until next time,

    Nancy

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    Choosing the Perfect Color for your Paint Project

    Posted on September 19, 2011 by Nancy

    don't be fooled by the fan deck...

    At Sisu, our reputation rests upon our ability to create the clearest reflection of our client’s design goals and desires… every time.   This is why we treat every paint project as if it were our own.  Our formula for success involves careful planning and preparation at every step of the process.

    We know that we can deliver the best and most expert paint job in town, but if you don’t absolutely love the color, you probably won’t be happy with the finished product. So, color selection is where we begin.

    Color selection is a very important consideration that is based almost entirely upon individual style and design preference. However, many people don’t really know how to go about identifying their preferences from among the endless sea of swatches and samples.  This is where we can help.  Following are some tried and true tips to assist you in making the perfect color selection for your project:

    1. Never trust a color swatch. Often, the color on the swatch will appear more vivid or intense than it will look on the wall.  And some colors actually reflect a stronger hue when applied to the wall.
    2. Proceed with caution when selecting bright shades of color. Colors come in different palettes, such as neutral or bright.  When choosing paint colors and shades from a sample “fan deck,” it’s usually best to steer away from the bright palette…unless you are very experienced working with color.  That said, deep, bold and cheery colors can elicit a dramatic and beautiful design response. Tip: We strongly encourage our clients to hire a color consultant or, better yet, take advantage of Nancy’s FREE one hour color consultation for new clients.
    3. Order a sample quart of the color you are considering. Apply a large test patch on the wall itself.  A stroke of color on the wall may look very different than a larger sampling of your chosen shade.  For example, a dash of yellow or pink may look shockingly different when it’s bathing the entire room.  Tip: apply enough of the sample color to envision the larger image it will create once applied to the entire wall.

    Here’s to the rainbow of colors that brighten our lives!

    Until next time,

    Nancy

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    Blistering and Peeling Paint Got You Down?

    Posted on July 19, 2011 by Nancy

    While it is a common assumption that blistering and peeling paint is the result of incorrect paint preparation, the fact is that paint failure is almost always caused by moisture in the siding or substrate.   Blisters are actually formed when moisture (in the siding) turns to steam (gasses) which are then trapped between the siding and the paint.  The blisters eventually crack and this is when peeling and paint failure occurs.  This common problem can occur for several different reasons:

    • Indoor / Outdoor Temperature Differential: The difference in interior and exterior temperature can cause condensation to develop in between the partitions.
    • Prolonged Sun Exposure: Moisture problems are most common on the surface areas which are interior-heated and also exposed to many hours of sunlight. Areas shaded by shutters, blinds, eaves or overhangs show less paint failure due to the absence of extreme heat differentials.
    • Indoor Heating Systems: Homes with forced hot water heating systems are more likely to experience temperature differentials (and blistering / peeling paint) due to the positioning of hot water pipes at the base of interior surface walls.  With this type of system, heated air condenses into water vapor inside wall cavities.
    • Seasonal Temperature Changes: The surface temperature of siding exposed to the sun for an hour or more can reach 140°F. If the moisture cannot escape through the pores of the paint, it will naturally build up internal pressure and form a blister on the painted surface.

    At Sisu, every step of our painting process is designed to create extraordinary results, which is why we offer two proven and effective solutions for the prevention of blistering and peeling paint:

    Peel Bond™ is a clear, water born, high build filling primer which is fast drying and highly effective for exterior applications. Read more at www.peelbond.com.

    The WedgeVent™ system employs a high-tensile strength “wedge” which, once properly installed, provides a way for moisture to be gradually released as it is generated without causing any damaging moisture buildup to existing paint or stain. Read more at www.wedgevent.com.

    Got blistering or peeling paint?  We can help!  Contact us for a FREE consultation.

    Until next time,

    Nancy



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    This is how we roll…

    Posted on June 3, 2011 by Nancy

    Exterior paint can be applied using a variety of methods.  The purpose of this post is to compare and contrast the most common methods and to explain how the processes we employ at Sisu Painting are guaranteed to get the best results.

    Brushing and Rolling

    Brushing and Rolling is a manual process that involves the application of two coats to meet manufacturer specifications.  While this type of process is both time and labor intensive, the painter is able to control the process and achieve an even coat and desired thickness.   This method provides excellent overall coverage, particularly important on “rough” siding surfaces such as cedar shakes or T-111.

    If your siding is hardy plank construction that is smooth and non-porous, back brushing or rolling may not be necessary or even the best application, however; eaves, corner boards and trim almost always require two coats of paint with back-brushing or rolling for an even and attractive paint application.

    Spraying

    Airless sprayers are commonly used for exterior paint applications because the spraying method allows for a uniform paint application (in terms of thickness) as well as a relatively fast drying time. However, when working with rough siding such as cedar or T-111, the airless spraying method does not allow the paint to absorb into the siding and often results in an inconsistent coverage and eventual paint failure.

    At Sisu we bring the best of both methods to your exterior paint job…

    To achieve the quality results you’ve come to expect from Sisu, our painters apply the first coat of exterior paint using an airless sprayer followed immediately by back-brushing or back-rolling to assure that the paint is worked evening into the siding surface. They finish with a top coat. This method combines the best of both worlds to achieve the most attractive and longest lasting paint application possible.

    CLICK  HERE to read more about our painting process. Request your free consultation TODAY!

    Enjoy the sunshine,

    Nancy

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    Hello and Welcome to my blog!

    Posted on May 5, 2011 by Nancy

    Painting is my passion, and I’ve spent the past decade researching and learning about proper paint practices. This blog is where I’ll be sharing what I know and addressing common issues that arise. It’s my way of giving back to my customers and supporting a higher level of professionalism in my industry.

    To get us started, I want to address an issue which is a very hot topic these days: lead-based paint toxicity. According to the CDC (Center for Disease Control) an estimated 310,000 American children, most under the age of six, are affected by the toxins in lead paint, despite the fact that use of lead-based paint has been banned since 1978. It is critically important for every parent to understand that lead-paint toxicity is still a very common and serious issue among children.

    Workers are at risk of exposure to lead through inhalation of fumes and dusts, as well as through ingestion as a result of lead-contaminated hands, food and clothing. Furthermore, workers can put their families at risk of exposure by taking lead home on their clothes, skin, hair, tools, and in their vehicles.

    Exposure to deteriorating paint, lead-contaminated dust or soil is the most common cause of lead poisoning. While lead paint left undisturbed does not in itself pose a health risk, when the paint is scraped, sanded or disturbed during demolition or remodeling the resultant dust becomes contaminated and toxicity is released into the environment. Likewise, peeling, blistering and cracking paint poses a high risk of contamination.

    So, what can be done? First and foremost, make it a priority to discover any lead-based paint that may exist in your home. If you suspect, based upon the age of your home, that lead-based paint may have been applied during construction, have your paint tested. Regardless of how many layers have been painted over the original paint, the risk of lead contamination still exists. A simple Lead Check test can verify the presence of lead based paint. At Sisu we routinely conduct Lead Checks for contamination and if we get a questionable result, we recommend a more thorough assessment by a lead assessment specialist. If lead is detected, we will follow stringent safety guidelines to remove any loose and failing paint and to encapsulate the home with primer and quality paint products. Lead abatement – the complete removal of all lead-based paint – is recommended, but can be quite costly. If you cannot afford lead abatement, the next best alternative is the encapsulation and maintenance services we offer through Sisu Painting.

    Fortunately, government agencies such as OSHA (Occupational Safety and Health Administration) and EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) have passed legislation to protect the workers and the general public from exposure to lead toxicity. The laws dictate a strict adherence to safety guidelines by any person working with lead-based paint. Learn more about the new EPA RRP Rule at www.epa.gov/lead/. Any paint company or contractor in violation of these guidelines risks serious fines and penalties. Read more about the preventive safety requirements for paint companies and contractors at www.orosha.org/pdf/pubs/4907.pdf.

    Bottom Line: Take every precaution by testing the paint in your home for lead, even if the original paint has been covered, and never hire a paint company or contractor unless they are fully lead-certified!

    You can count on this: protecting our clients, our employees, and our environment from the dangers of lead-based paint is priority #1 at Sisu painting.

    Until next time,

    Nancy

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